Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Don’t talk about it…we’re in Jordan.

Part I of my Jordanian adventure: -->
            For the last few years, whenever I travel to a new place and proceed to write about it, people have suggested I become a travel blog writer (which is basically what I was doing anyway), or that I write tour books. What’s funny is that almost all of the tour books sound the same, with a slightly different format, color scheme, and organization. Each time the comment was sounded, I replied with a steadfast NO! My writing isn’t good enough, I couldn’t support myself, blah, blah, blah. However, I realized that the way I narrate my adventures (yes, I narrate my own travels, to myself) sounds very much like the guidebooks that I frequently come across. Therefore, apologies/qualifications in advance for some of my rhetoric and free reign to anyone who might feel inclined to use my information in the future:
Israeli/Jordanian border
Getting there: Petra is a city only reachable by taxi, private car, or camel (but only if you have MANY hours to spare and are prepared for the really sore body that will come later. Once you pay the 103 NIS to cross the border from Eilat (there is an airport in Jordan, but it does not seem like the most commercial place, nor the best place to fly into) and get your passport stamped approximately 5 times, you will enter the no man’s land between the two countries. Before entering however, you may be engaged in a discussion that goes something like this:
Clerk: Excuse me!
Elana: Yes? What did I do wrong?
Clerk: Nothing yet. But you will if you don’t take off your necklace. And don’t put it under your shirt. You don’t want to advertise that you are Jewish.
Elana: Thank you (and then I proceeded to share this information with the group, to which we grumblingly un-Jewified ourself)
Another exchange had on the Israeli side:
Elana: Who wants a crembo? I bought one for each of us, just to chill us out!
Danny: Wow…such a Jewish mother!
Elana: eye roll
Worker: walks by, eyeing the crembo…
Sam: (to the worker) Can we bring bottled water that we just bought into Jordan?
Worker: Officially, no. But for the most part, yes.
Elana: (opening bag full of food) What about this? Can I bring this in?
Worker: Again, just close your bag and don’t worry about it. Crembo was definitely a good idea. Enjoy it.
Elana: Would you like one?
Worker: Really? (Elana nods) Only if we do it sneakily…
Ben: Way to bribe him, Elana….that does NOT seem legitimate!
Elana: At least we’ll get in! And whats the big deal. It wasn’t a bribe. I was just being nice.
Sean: Uh huh…whatever you say.
And for the rest of the trip, if you HAPPEN to do something like this, you will be accused of bribing the Israeli policeman. It will be worth it!
Once you reach the Jordanian side, after potentially saying shechechiyanu or some other appropriate prayer and potentially singing lech lecha, members of your party may suggest that the Hebrew, Jewish, and Israel talk cease. It is a good idea. Although Jordan and Israel currently have the most friendly border, there still exists animosity about Israel’s right to existence.
In addition, make sure you know for sure who your leader is. When you get eight people together, 5 or 6 of whom are strong leader personalities, it often becomes a mess of trying to direct the activity and happenings. Even if you are also a leader, sit back and let things happen. You will get there eventually. You might just have to settle for it being a little slower than your liking.
The guy at the border will ask for your guide (read: driver), who has all your passport numbers (or is supposed to and therefore supposed to be waiting inside the Jordanian half of the border) and then make you wait approximately half an hour for him to come through. Once that happens, it will be easy for you to get your visa and split into cars for the 1.5 hour ride to the city of Wadi Musa.
Mini-mart near our Hostel
Wadi Musa is the city that sprung up around the ancient city of Petra. You know, the place with all the electricity, running water, dirt, restaurants, cats, hostels, hotels, homes, taxis, taxis, and taxis. But honestly, it’s not that bad. It is all located on a giant mountain/hill (what do you call a giant mountainous rock formation that seems like a mountain from the bottom but doesn’t even begin to compare with the natural border between Jordan and Israel?) and will be incredibly hospitable to all who choose to venture there! The people love Americans, and love ripping them off. But mostly just love meeting new tourists, even if their English is rather non-existent. Some facts: 1. Wadi musa is Arabic for “stream bed of Moses”. Interesting that the town is named after Moses and you can see Aaron’s tomb from the High Place of Sacrifice. Coincidence, I think not! 2. Foreign girls are well liked. If alone, Jordanians will offer them food, hot tea, free food, and many other things, if not marriage itself. While they are completely genuine, I suggest going with at least one or two guys to make sure the females don’t get hassled…

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