Adventures Accompanied by Aaron

            Shabbat is about an hour away, and I am fully wiped. This week has seen me completing my work for the semester, visiting Tel Aviv and Haifa, riding over 50 miles, taking over 150 pictures, cooking three different dinners, and so much more. Oh yeah, and the arrival of Mr. Aaron Alexander Mosher.

            Aaron and I have traversed this country in just a few days, taking just about every kind of transportation imaginable (bus, sheirut, taxi, train, bike, foot) and covering many miles. Yesterday we were in Haifa to see the Baha’i gardens, and we got a surprise by running into Carly and her boyfriend, Jonathan. The four of us went to lunch after the tour, where Aaron and Jonathan got into a discussion about engineering and Carly and I discussed Rabbinics. However, the most fascinating conversation regarded a Jew marrying a convert. Our discussion revolved around the idea that a convert did not grow up Jewish and therefore doesn’t necessarily know about all the traditions, songs, or childhood activities. No matter, we were all engaged and all made to think about what was discussed.

a little bit of the symmetry of the gardens

            However, let me return to the gardens for a brief moment. The symmetry and cleanliness that abounded in the gardens was absolutely magnificent. Everything had its equal match, demonstrated by looking from one side to the other. Aaron also noticed that on almost all the tiers, there was only one rose left on each side. Our guide said it was accidental, but neither of us were so sure. The 18 levels, nine on top and nine on bottom, represent the 18 initial followers of Baha’u’llah starting in the mid-eigtheen hundreds in Persia (present day Iraq). The religion was founded under the auspices of eliminating warfare. There seemed to be so much destruction and war in the world, and these men and women simply wanted peace and humanity to exist as one. Baha’i followers believe in the institution of marriage, as the foundation for how we learn and grow, and stand for equality between men and women, as well as among all people of the earth.

            These beliefs resonated with me, as ways in which I want to live my life, how I want to go about changing the world. Yet, I feel so strongly about Judaism that I am not sure that this other faith would be possible. Especially because the Baha’i prayer practice is individual, can take place anywhere, and only necessitates two or three prayers, said 2-3 times a day, depending on the person and the practice. In addition, there is no specific time necessitated for it.

            After considering my options (I am in Rabbinical school after all…), I recognize that I agree with the message, that all men are equal and deserve opportunity regardless of their age, race, religion, nationality or any other identifying factor. However, I can enact change right here in Judaism as well, as a Rabbi and as a person. I may not be an extremely charismatic leader, but I do have passion. I love Judaism, I love life, I love people, and I love helping. Those four things, mixed with another of smaller adventures and additions, can help me build a world that will be better than how I found it. That is the most important thing. I spiritually and religiously connect with the Jewish tradition, and will continue on my current path. But I recognize the importance of taking the time to consider other options, other messages, and truly hear what they have to say and how they are said.

            Leaving Haifa, Aaron and I returned home to race through the shuk in time to pay my landlord. Once he left, we made an incredible white wine lemon chicken and garlic bread. The icing on top of the cake was the fact that we were able to just sit and talk for hours (about 3) and just be. We weren’t at dinner or anything and there were no distractions. Plus, we also had chocolate lava cake with whipped cream (so truly, almost icing and cake!!)

Aaron and I at the gardens

            Today dawned early, with me thinking this head cold had taken an even stronger grip. After a shower and some time, I felt good enough to accompany Aaron and Oren on the bike ride to Yad Kennedy. Although Aaron was full of energy and gleeful like a child, I was more subdued, just enjoying being alive.

            We came back, both of us tired. Except it was now time to start preparing for the 13 guests coming for dinner. We made challah (after ruining the yeast two times), apple-strawberry crisp, lentils, and will have salmon. Re-arranging the apartment took some time, as did cleaning up so there would be room for everyone.

The door is open. I'm coming in!

            As I said, it is now 15:48 and the Shabbat siren will go off in about 20 minutes. 

 

The future holds many things, none of them certain. I just look forward to opening the window, and then the door, feeling my way in the dark until I find the light. The light will come, maybe even has come. Regardless, I know I have many people rooting for me, ready to lend me a hand when I fall, or laugh with me along the way. Aaron is one of those people. Ken Yehi Ratzon!

Don’t talk about it…we’re in Jordan.

Part I of my Jordanian adventure: -->

            For the last few years, whenever I travel to a new place and proceed to write about it, people have suggested I become a travel blog writer (which is basically what I was doing anyway), or that I write tour books. What’s funny is that almost all of the tour books sound the same, with a slightly different format, color scheme, and organization. Each time the comment was sounded, I replied with a steadfast NO! My writing isn’t good enough, I couldn’t support myself, blah, blah, blah. However, I realized that the way I narrate my adventures (yes, I narrate my own travels, to myself) sounds very much like the guidebooks that I frequently come across. Therefore, apologies/qualifications in advance for some of my rhetoric and free reign to anyone who might feel inclined to use my information in the future:

Israeli/Jordanian border

Getting there: Petra is a city only reachable by taxi, private car, or camel (but only if you have MANY hours to spare and are prepared for the really sore body that will come later. Once you pay the 103 NIS to cross the border from Eilat (there is an airport in Jordan, but it does not seem like the most commercial place, nor the best place to fly into) and get your passport stamped approximately 5 times, you will enter the no man’s land between the two countries. Before entering however, you may be engaged in a discussion that goes something like this:

Clerk: Excuse me!

Elana: Yes? What did I do wrong?

Clerk: Nothing yet. But you will if you don’t take off your necklace. And don’t put it under your shirt. You don’t want to advertise that you are Jewish.

Elana: Thank you (and then I proceeded to share this information with the group, to which we grumblingly un-Jewified ourself)

Another exchange had on the Israeli side:

Elana: Who wants a crembo? I bought one for each of us, just to chill us out!

Danny: Wow…such a Jewish mother!

Elana: eye roll

Worker: walks by, eyeing the crembo…

Sam: (to the worker) Can we bring bottled water that we just bought into Jordan?

Worker: Officially, no. But for the most part, yes.

Elana: (opening bag full of food) What about this? Can I bring this in?

Worker: Again, just close your bag and don’t worry about it. Crembo was definitely a good idea. Enjoy it.

Elana: Would you like one?

Worker: Really? (Elana nods) Only if we do it sneakily…

Ben: Way to bribe him, Elana….that does NOT seem legitimate!

Elana: At least we’ll get in! And whats the big deal. It wasn’t a bribe. I was just being nice.

Sean: Uh huh…whatever you say.

And for the rest of the trip, if you HAPPEN to do something like this, you will be accused of bribing the Israeli policeman. It will be worth it!

Once you reach the Jordanian side, after potentially saying shechechiyanu or some other appropriate prayer and potentially singing lech lecha, members of your party may suggest that the Hebrew, Jewish, and Israel talk cease. It is a good idea. Although Jordan and Israel currently have the most friendly border, there still exists animosity about Israel’s right to existence.

In addition, make sure you know for sure who your leader is. When you get eight people together, 5 or 6 of whom are strong leader personalities, it often becomes a mess of trying to direct the activity and happenings. Even if you are also a leader, sit back and let things happen. You will get there eventually. You might just have to settle for it being a little slower than your liking.

The guy at the border will ask for your guide (read: driver), who has all your passport numbers (or is supposed to and therefore supposed to be waiting inside the Jordanian half of the border) and then make you wait approximately half an hour for him to come through. Once that happens, it will be easy for you to get your visa and split into cars for the 1.5 hour ride to the city of Wadi Musa.

Mini-mart near our Hostel

Wadi Musa is the city that sprung up around the ancient city of Petra. You know, the place with all the electricity, running water, dirt, restaurants, cats, hostels, hotels, homes, taxis, taxis, and taxis. But honestly, it’s not that bad. It is all located on a giant mountain/hill (what do you call a giant mountainous rock formation that seems like a mountain from the bottom but doesn’t even begin to compare with the natural border between Jordan and Israel?) and will be incredibly hospitable to all who choose to venture there! The people love Americans, and love ripping them off. But mostly just love meeting new tourists, even if their English is rather non-existent. Some facts: 1. Wadi musa is Arabic for “stream bed of Moses”. Interesting that the town is named after Moses and you can see Aaron’s tomb from the High Place of Sacrifice. Coincidence, I think not! 2. Foreign girls are well liked. If alone, Jordanians will offer them food, hot tea, free food, and many other things, if not marriage itself. While they are completely genuine, I suggest going with at least one or two guys to make sure the females don’t get hassled…